Saturday, August 11, 2012

August 11th

First week of school: DONE. Kind of. Funny story, actually. As previously mentioned, we're currently enrolled in two different universities, la Universidad de Chile (la Chile) and la Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile (la Catolica). La Catolica is a private, obviously Catholic, university that is very well regarded. La Chile is the university of Chile, is state-funded, and is considered the best school in Chile. It's also completely crazy. As evidence, I submit this video, which we had to watch at two separate orientations:

You don't have to speak Spanish to be intrigued by the music selection/editing. So that was one of our first impressions of la Chile. The second important impression was when we went to the first class, a history class about the 18th century and the professor just didn't show up. We were there for 30 minutes until some Chilean students came in to say that he had forgotten classes started that day and he'd see us on Wednesday instead.

On Wednesday, there was nation-wide student protest advocating for education reform so of course there were no Chilean students in class, just us Americans, which I can only assume is why the professor chose not to show up for a second time. So hopefully he comes to class on Monday because this Wednesday is a national holiday and it'd be nice to see him at some point in the first two weeks of school.

The best la Chile story is from a friend of mine, BJ. He was told class started at 8:30 so he got to campus at 8:30 only to find that class actually started at 10. So he waited around until 10 and then he was still early because the class actually started at 10:15. So once the professor showed up he was expecting to actually have class. But no, that's not how la Chile works. Instead the professor wanted to know what other classes students were taking so that he could schedule that class at a convenient time for everybody. So they decided on a time to meet  at which point everybody would decide when classes should meet. Seriously, this school is crazy.

Aside from the crazy, it's been good so far. I'm currently signed up for the previously mentioned history class as well as a ceramics class that takes up eight hours a week but should be fun.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

August 7th

It's been a busy week since I last posted. We spent five days in Buenos Aires/on the bus and classes started yesterday. Sitting down is nice sometimes. So let's talk about the bus ride to Buenos Aires. Ha. It's a six hour trip from Santiago to Mendoza, Argentina. You have to go through customs, which is in a giant, unheated warehouse thing in the middle of the Andes, at like 10 at night and it can take at least an hour, easily. A friend's host dad insisted he bring a parka specifically to go through customs. It was good advice. There are pretty mountains though.

That's the fun part of the ride. Once you get to Mendoza, if you're anything like us, you forget that you switched time zones and instead of having an hour to buy tickets for the last bus out of the station, you have ten minutes to locate and purchase tickets for 17 people at 11:45 pm. Then you have, I kid you not, 14 hours (sitting next to a profoundly disgusting bathroom, on an unheated bus) to be thankful that you're not sitting in a bus depot all night. All in all it takes a solid 22 hours to get to Buenos Aires by bus.

It's totally worth it though because Buenos Aires is genuinely one of the best cities ever. It's awesome. Even walking around in the rain in an almost deserted neighborhood, you wander across such wonderful sights as this:
Puente de la Mujer (it's supposed to look like tango dancers!!)

And then when it starts pouring and thundering and lightninging, you can just duck into a cafe and drink Paso de Toros (best soda ever, grapefruit flavored) and eat yummy zucchini tarta which is like quiche but better.

If it continues raining the entire time you're there, the obvious solution is to go to el Cemetario de la Recoleta where all the famous people are buried. Nothing says a good time like an overcast graveyard. In all seriousness though, it was very pretty and peaceful with a dash of creepy (where do all those staircases go, seriously.)

But actually, it just goes down...

Grave of Eva "Evita" Peron
Best statue
It was sort of like a quick tour through architectural fads

We concluded this tour with a test of Argentina's baked goods:
A++
We concluded our day of touristing with an empanada dinner/lunch in front of la Casa Rosada.
Only Argentina has pink government buildings

Okay, full disclosure: that was not the end of our evening. Our dear friend Andrew, henceforth known as the delicate flower, spent the day in bed, and, after vomiting all day, demanded to be taken to the hospital. So an ambulance was called. An hour and a half later the EMTs show up, pronounce him to be a big, whiny American, prescribe Cipro, antibiotics, and anti-nausea meds, and drive away laughing. So me, Becca, and BJ ventured out at midnight to find a 24-hour pharmacy to get anti-nausea meds, which was an adventure and a half. But when we get back, Andrew has projectile vomited his Cipro all over the bathroom and is demanding to be taken to the hospital again. So we called a taxi this time and loaded him and some other people and a lot of fluids in. Turns out the EMTs were totally wrong and he had some sort of stomach inflammation thing and all he needed was a lot of fluids via IV.

On our last day we went to a market that sells arts and crap and stuff. We tried mate and looked at stuff and made a quick trip to el Museo de Bellas Artes. We got fantastically lost on the way back to the hostel but ended up eating lunch at a very economically priced cafe with the sweetest waitress of all time. We wanted to bring her back to Santiago. Then it was time to get back on the bus.
It snowed while we were in Buenos Aires
Back in Chile at last!

School started yesterday and registering for classes has been obscenely complicated. I'm currently taking classes at two different universities on three different campuses. Yikes. 



Monday, July 30, 2012

July 30th

I have moved in with my host family and they're wonderful. I have a mom (Daly), a dad (Nandy), a sister (Sofia Maria, 19), a brother (Javier, 22), a grandma (name and age unknown), and a dog (Apolo). I have a tiny but lovely room with the most comfortable bed in the world.
Bonus religious iconography.

On Sunday I went to a birthday party of somebody related to my host family. I'm not sure how she was related but she turned 90! The party was at a restaurant and lunch lasted for more than four and a half hours. I ate maybe half as much as everybody else and I was still unbearably full. It was just like a birthday party in the states but with a lot more relatives and more singing and probably the same amount of alcohol.

Everybody that I've met here has been really nice and patient with my inability to understand about 60% of what I hear. I'm definitely getting better and am quickly filling a notebook with words I'm learning. It's difficult to tell which words are chilenismos and which are words I just never learned but they all go in the book.

We're headed to Buenos Aires tomorrow and we'll get back Sunday. It's a six hour bus ride to Mendoza where we'll stop for dinner, then a thirteen hour ride overnight to Buenos Aires. We changed some money today and man, the money down here is weird. Before we leave tomorrow we still need to pick up our IDs, add money to our cell phones, and I need to attempt to register for classes. No doubt I will enjoy it all very much. 

I doubt I'll post again until I get back from Buenos Aires. I'm not bringing my computer but I'll try to check email a couple times while I'm there. Ciao!

Saturday, July 28, 2012

July 28th

In less than an hour I meet my host family. I know nothing about them but I'm embracing the power of positive thinking. This also means that orientation is over, which is both sad and wonderful at the same time.
Goodbye hostel breakfasts and bad coffee.
Goodbye inexplicable fluorescent hallways.
 Goodbye "writing" on the board.
Goodbye classroom of many lectures.
Goodbye late night soccer games.
Goodbye long bus rides.

I'll only have a couple days with my host family before we go to Buenos Aires but they will be awesome days and my family will be awesome and everything will be awesome and by the way, what does a panic attack feel like?

Thursday, July 26, 2012

July 26th

So...I got a really bad cold and spent the last couple of days hibernating from the world and not getting very much better in this COMPLETELY UNHEATED hostel (no, actually, Chileans don't have central heat) with NO HOT WATER and apparently no belief in wool blankets. Whatever. Aside from that hiccup Chile is wonderful, here let me share some of it:
Our first facebook-official Chilean friend. She was extremely disappointed that America doesn't have a national dance.
Man, we got mountains.
A woman who sang for us and talked about running a community kitchen during the occupation. Very sweet lady.
La cueca: national dance of Chile
Una chicheria. Chicha=kind of like a hard cider but made of grapes and super sweet.

For the last few days we've mostly been listening to lectures about Chilean politics, economics, feminism, workers issues, history, etc. But today we actually went on a field trip! We went to La Legua which is a población, a poor neighborhood, that has a terrible reputation for violence and drug trafficking. But we went in the middle of the afternoon and visited a soccer fútbol club and a church and an elementary school (that was nicer than my elementary school, by the way) and a radio station and they were all very nice and not dangerous at all. 

The radio station was by far my favorite though. The guy who spoke to us had the the best hair I've ever seen. It was super curly, like a clown wig, and really thick. I wish I had a picture but sadly I left my camera at the hostel (poor planning). For the most part I can understand what people say here but I could not understand this guy at all. All I got was "radio...radio...Satan....democracy" which was confusing. After he talked for a long time we got cookies (yay!) and he asked us where we were all from. He must study American maps or something because his knowledge of American geography was unbelievable. When I said I was from Washington state he asked if I was from Seattle and I said yes. Then he asked if I was actually from Seattle (clearly I can't avoid this question even when I leave the continent) or one of the suburbs like Bellevue or Everett which totally blew my mind because, seriously, who's ever heard of Bellevue?? Small world. 


Saturday, July 21, 2012

July 21st

The theme of this post is small victories. This morning I had my first hot shower since arriving here. It was divine. Yesterday the day before yesterday I finally acquired a Chilean cell phone so I can text all the other Tufts kids who I spend all my time with. We spent yesterday afternoon at a vineyard and had a wonderful lunch and did a wine-tasting afterwards (yay study-abroad!).
Our lunch had a soup course.
mmmm vegetables and rice cooked in wine.
fancy passion fruit dessert 
We seem to end up in really pretty places at sunset
I taste...dirt? What?

Earlier in the day we also went to a memorial for those who disappeared in during the Pinochet era in the town of Paine. Out of 2000 people, 70 people disappeared which is the highest percentage in Chile. Two women, one who lost a husband and one who lost her father, spoke to us about the experience and why they helped create the memorial.
Our guide shows us the mosaic her family designed to commemorate her father
Mosaics were grouped by family. One family lost three brothers.



Thursday, July 19, 2012

July 19th

Attempts at meaningful content have ended. I have exactly no time to think of clever things so there will be mostly photos for a while. Yesterday we went to Valparaíso:
La Casa de Pablo Neruda: very cool
View of the harbor from the restaurant
Fancy pants lunch with very good fish and also good vegetable lasagna
Congreso Nacional. They're big into squares here.
Sitting in on a congressional session
Brave swimmers in the Humboldt current
A lovely sunset after a lovely day. Sadly there are no pictures of the unbelievably good ice cream we ate shortly after this.